Sunday 27 April 2014

#8 ~ Moisturisers

After cleansing your face (or showering), it is best to apply a pea-sized amount of moisturiser within three minutes to give back what the cleanser may have taken from your skin, plus it helps for a better application of make-up and gives your skin a layer of protection from such things like wrinkles and daily air pollution (which, if you live in a city like me, is vital; no one wants a smoggy face) or the wet and windy English weather; many moisturisers even have SPF in them nowadays, too - usually of factor 15, so during the summer, if the sun decides to poke its head out of course, you will still need extra sunscreen (which you should apply after moisturiser). It is also very important to use a separate moisturiser for the delicate eyes and lip areas!

As with all cosmetics, there are different types depending on what skin you have. To help keep normal and combination skin from becoming excessively oily or dry, lightweight oil or water-based moisturisers do the trick. Creamy, oil-based moisturisers are perfect for dry skin and does wonders to keep the flaky tightness at bay; dry skin is also easily prone to early signs of ageing, so moisturisers can help greatly with that, too! As for oily and acne-prone skin, moisturiser can actually be relevant as well. You would not really imagine that applying one could help - but since it is common for people with these skin types to use harsh cleansing products on their face to control the oil and acne, a water-based moisturiser that contains no oil can help balance the skin and produce less oil over time. For those with sensitive skin, a good moisturiser containing aloe or chamomile will soothe it; make sure to avoid ones with fragrances, dyes or irritant acids.


You may have heard of or use day and night creams. They are purely a personal preference and I have never used them myself. It sounds like they might take some getting used to...I mean, would your face not stick to your pillow?

These days you can find moisturisers for daily all-in-one use. However, day creams are usually lighter than night creams, contain SPF and focus on re-hydrating your face whilst protecting your skin from everyday exposure to UV rays and pollution. Night creams, on the other hand, are made to work with your skin overnight as your body heals and repairs damage; night creams aid the process and can contain ingredients for anti-ageing and keeping your skin generally healthy. Although there are moisturisers for every skin type, oily skin does not really need a night cream and is normally fine with just an all-in-one day cream.

Thank you so much for reading! Until next time~


Love, Miss Emma-Lily xx

Sunday 20 April 2014

#7 ~ Toners

In Korea, where beauty is Queen, women use about 14 beauty products a day. Today, however, toner is not one of them. Toners have been used in daily skin routines for as long as time (well maybe not quite that long) and were originally invented to remove the residue of cleansers as well as to restore the skin's natural pH balance if you use a bar of soap as your cleanser (this post explains why you should not use bars as your cleanser) - nowadays cleansers are water-based, do not change the pH balance of your skin and do not leave a residue behind - but toners still claim to thoroughly cleanse and tighten/shrink pores. There is little need for them with the vast array of good cleansers, exfoliators and facial masks on the market and these are made well enough that your skin has no need for four cleansers (hence why there are barely any in shops anymore)!



Some people use toners because they believe the hype about them tightening and shrinking your pores and in a way, they do just that, but this is in fact due to the toner drying out your skin, which will make your pores look smaller and give you that tingly, taut, 'toned' feeling. A moisturiser can shrink your pores too by swelling the tissue around them, making them appear smaller; this is a much better alternative to toner, plus the chances are you already moisturise your face as a part of your daily skin routine, so there is nothing to lose (apart from money if you do buy toner!). You should also need to use less moisturiser if you skip the toner because you are not stripping down your skin, leaving your natural oils to do their job.

The oiliest or acne-prone skin could benefit from a toner if it is not already being controlled using another method, so if you really must use one, make sure it is alcohol-free, but all other skin types are better of skipping it.

I hope you found this useful! Until next time~

Love, Miss Emma-Lily xx

References: Is Toner Necessary? - About.comUnnecessary Cosmetics - oprah.com

Sunday 13 April 2014

#6 ~ Cleansers

There are a lot of cleansers out there - from facial washes to foams, lotions to cleansing waters...and let's face it, they all do the same thing: remove dead skin cells, dirt, make-up and excess oilYou just have to find what works best for your skin.

Before using your cleanser, gently pinch the skin around your eyebrows, just below them, along and above your cheekbones and jawline to flush excess fluids away as well as to get an instant glow. For another added benefit, gently stroke the skin in these spots in outwards motions to keep wrinkles at bay. Remember to wash your hands and moisturise them before starting your routine too! It does not really matter whether you do this before or after pinching your face as you are going to cleanse afterwards.



Cleansing is usually the first step of daily skincare routines (you should not cleanse after exfoliating though, use a facial mask instead - find out more here - unless you exfoliate in the morning and cleanse in the evening) and nowadays eliminates the need for make-up removers, unless you wear stubborn or heavy make-up in which case it is best to use a special type of remover after cleansing, particularly for the eyes. It should not remove your natural moisture, yet should make your skin a little taught; this feeling tells you the cleanser has removed the oils on the surface that collect bacteria and dirt, however if this feeling lasts for more than ten minutes, you should find a milder cleanser as it has probably dried out your skin (this feeling is also heightened when using toner and is why you should not use it).



Do you remember these Hello Kitty soaps from my previous post? Well, this is why, sadly, you should avoid them. Surprisingly, bars of soap actually do more bad than good! They have thickeners in which will clog your pores and can remove natural oils that your skin uses to form a barrier against losing moisture (your skin might then overproduce oil to make up for the loss); both of these can lead to possible breakouts. Your skin's natural pH balance is usually around 4.7, whilst a bar soap's pH is 9 or 10, so you can see how this will increase acne-causing bacteria - yuck!

The best way to use a cleanser is as follows: firstly, before using your cleanser, splash your face with lukewarm water and stick to this temperature regularly (even if using a cleansing water, as the warmth from the tap water helps with more stubborn make-up, plus changing temperatures often can shock the skin) - and if you are like me then a cold shock in the morning is not a pleasant thing so any excuse to use warm water is a saviour. Then dab the cleanser all over your face and use soft swipes in 
an upwards direction (circular or flat) to wipe it away towards the sides of your face (these actions are said to prevent or delay sagging and wrinkles) in the order you put it on your face, because then the cleanser will have had time to absorb a little bit of the surface dirt, but avoid letting cleansers sink in too much or deliberately as they can actually cleanse less by doing this. Finally, if needed, rinse off with warm water (obviously not needed when using cleansing water).



As you probably know, there are different cleansers for each skin type. Normal skin is best off using cleansing waters, but of course anything can work really. Dry skin should use creamy cleansing lotions, combination or oily skin will thank you for using gel-like facial washes and sensitive skin needs to use special cleansers like waters, foams or something that is really gentle. But no matter what your skin type, avoid facial wipes. The texture of the wipe itself can be quite harsh when you swipe it across your face (so if you must use wipes, avoid using them on and around the eyes) and they usually contain harsher chemicals than bottled cleansers.

And there you go! A guide to cleansing. Thank you for reading; until next time~

Love, Miss Emma-Lily xx

Sunday 6 April 2014

#5 ~ Exfoliators and Facial Masks

Who doesn't love that feeling of super soft skin? Well, thanks to exfoliators and facial masks, we can maintain a healthy look both inside and out. This is why exfoliation is important - over time, as your skin ages, its collagen and elastin production slows down, eventually blocking your pores; this causes signs of ageing. An exfoliator will remove the dirt and dead skin cells an everyday cleanser cannot reach, getting rid of the icky layer and revealing the hidden fresher, younger skin underneath.

Doing this regularly increases blood circulation (from the massaging; this helps relieve tension and maintain elasticity, so every time you exfoliate try giving yourself a facial massage at the same time) and allows your skin's natural oils to shine, giving you that natural glow, but do not exfoliate the eye area! It is far too delicate to experience scrubbing; after all, it is the thinnest skin on your face. Lips should be treated with a separate special scrub, too so that it does not matter if you 'accidentally' ingest some (mmm...sugar!). It is also a good idea to use lip balm after scrubbing your lips; the scrub will get rid of dead skin thus helping you avoid chapped lips, easier application of make-up and allowing the balm to do its job better (just like you would moisturise your face after exfoliating)!




As this is a method of deep cleansing, it helps prevent acne breakouts and keeps your skin lovely and clean; however, it should be done in moderation - you want some skin left on your face, right? Rubbing it down too often will cause dryness and irritations. Also, if you are exfoliating for the first time (or after not doing it for a while), it may cause a little break out - this has happened to me - and is because your pores are being 'opened' by the deep cleanse, so new bacteria can get in which can lead to spots. I only got a few barely noticeable little bumps and once I had been doing it regularly, they disappeared quickly.

Despite what most advice tells us, for normal and combination skin, once a week is good. Dry or sensitive skin will be better off just using creamy facial lotions or washes (they are gentler and better at moisturising) and avoiding beady scrubs, whereas oily skin, depending on how greasy it gets, should be cleansed rather than exfoliated with a cleansing scrub twice a week. Personally, I am lucky to have normal skin and started off exfoliating every three days as my tub of exfoliator said it can be used daily. Even that sounded a little too often and it turned out my gut instinct was right; now I only do it once a week and my skin is back to normal and cotton soft for the rest of the week. A lot of people that recommend you exfoliate more than this are most likely trying to make you spend twice as much money by buying more exfoliators than you need to. It is neither healthy for your face, nor your purse.




After exfoliating, a facial mask is a good idea because it can actually do its job properly by soaking into your 'open' pores. As a great nourishing food for you skin, a mask helps keep skin naturally moist and plump, plus there are many varieties with different ingredients and properties depending on what you want it to do. To feed your skin a proper diet, you should use another type of mask each week and unless you use nourishing ones, you might as well just moisturise instead; there is no need to deeply cleanse and dry out your face twice (however, facial masks can be used instead of exfoliators and if you are using one or the other, you should moisturise afterwards).

With all of this talk about your face, your neck may be feeling rather neglected - and if you do not really fancy a saggy chicken neck or a double chin, you can massage your neck with light, circular outward strokes with or without moisturiser whilst waiting for your mask to set. Hooray for multi-tasking!

I know I definitely learnt something from writing this blog! I hope you did too. Until next time~


Love, Miss Emma-Lily xx